Esztergom (Gran in German, Strigonium in Latin) is a former capital of Hungary (from the 10th until the mid-13th century) and the current seat of the Catholic Church in Hungary (yes, it’s not Budapest!). Its cathedral, Esztergom Basilica, is the largest church in Hungary. Esztergom was established around year 972 but its vicinity has been inhabited since the end of the Ice Age, 20.000 years ago. It was under the successive rule of the Celts, then the Romans, then the Germans and Avars, then the Slavs and Franks, and finally the Magyars. It has seen the invasions of the Tatars, of the Ottoman Turks and the consequences of the Treaty of Trianon. The city is significant both historically and spiritually. It was my second visit to this place and I consider it my favorite place in Hungary.

The façade of the Esztergom Basilica or the Primatial Basilica of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary and Saint Adalbert (Nagyboldogasszony és Szent Adalbert prímási főszékesegyház). There were several churches built on its place: the first was built in year 1001 by Stephen I of Hungary, to serve as Hungary’s first cathedral. The present one was built in year 1822.

The classical view from the Esztergom Cathedral, with the Mária Valéria Bridge over the Danube River, connecting Hungary (left and background) to Slovakia (right).

Looking to the west over Slovakia and the nearby Štúrovo.

Looking towards the south-west, with a view of the wall of the Castle of Esztergom (Esztergomi vár) to the left and the Christian Museum (Keresztény Múzeum) in the center, next to the St. Ignatius Church (Loyolai Szent Ignác Templom), both in the Víziváros neighborhood.

A photo of the cathedral next to the castle, taken from the bridge over the Danube.

Esztergom seen from Štúrovo, in Slovakia.

A nice detail.

Now, going under the cathedral, you can see that the walls are 17 meters thick and the cupola 100 meters. The cathedral is simply huge and it is one of the tallest in the world. Walls so thick is something really impressive, although understandable.

The burial place of the cardinal and archbishop of Esztergom, József Mindszenty, a significant personality opposing both fascism and communism in Hungary.

The eerie underground spaces of the cathedral…

Giant statues…

There are many crypts guarded by these gigantic statues.

Here is an underground arcade.

However, take a closer look at it!

We start our life as unknowing caterpillars…

Then we spread our wings as beautiful butterflies…

Still, in the end, we return to where we came from… Here is the Ouroboros, the dragon eating its own tail. There is mystical symbolism if you know where to look…

Inside the dome.

The cupola.

The space inside and the altar.

Looking back.

Meditating…