Hidden somewhere off the main road connecting Sibiu to Sebeș, the village of Gârbova (Urwegen in German, Szász Orbó in Hungarian) is little known. We are now in the Alba County, an interesting triangular county (if we look at a map) spreading simultaneously towards the ancient German lands (to the east), the ancient Romanian (Geto-Dacian) lands (to the south and west), and the ancient Hungarian lands (to the north). The Alba County (Județul Alba in Romanian, Kreis Weißenburg in German and Fehér Megye in Hungarian) has in its center the City of Alba Iulia (Apulum in Latin, Karlsburg in German, Gyulafehérvár in Hungarian), former Capital of the Great Union of Romania (1918) and coronation place for the Kings of Romania, but also, surprisingly, former Capital of Hungary (from 1542 to 1570 it was the capital of the Eastern Hungarian Kingdom, and further until 1711, capital of the Principality of Transylvania). What is additionally surprising is that Alba Iulia used to be the capital of Dacia Apulensis during the Roman times, after the conquest of Dacia. In conclusion, the entire area is full of surprising historical places, intertwined in a fascinating mozaic.

Gârbova was first attested in 1291 as Wrbow. However, archeological excavations have the shown that, surprisingly, the Hungarian Székelys lived in the village around the year 1100. Then, in the year 1200, the Székelys have moved to the east and were replaced by the Transylvanian Saxons (Germans). Then, in 1241, the Citadel of the Greaves (Cetatea Greavilor in Romanian) was built. And then, in 1280, a Romanesque basilica was also built on a hill above Gârbova.

The village also has a Evangelical-Lutheran Church which you can see in the image above. It was built around 1500 in the Gothic style, then it was transformed in the Baroque style in 1743.

The Citadel of the Greaves was built in the 13th century by the German noble Herbord de Wrbow. In the 15th century the citadel was sold to the community (following lengthy tensions and disputes) and has somehow survived until nowadays. The term “Greav” comes from the Romanian/Hungarian term “Grof“, which translates to “Count” in English, to “Comte” in French, and has the same root as “Graf” in German.

One can appreciate the complete lack of style of the tricolor fence around the citadel, which cannot be anything else but a statement from the Romanians in the community, as the colors are the ones on the Romanian flag. As everywhere in Transylvania, the symbolism is important and one must be aware that few things are completely innocent.

It is perhaps useful to state that the total population of the commune of Gârbova (a total of 3 villages) is of about 1800 inhabitants (according to the 2021 census), with a Romanian majority, a Gypsy minority of around 11% and a vanishing German community of less than 2%. However, even in a life & death situation, it appears that the tensions started in the 15th century are nowhere near to a closure…

The weather was not on my side during this particular trip. And, as expected, the citadel was closed.

However, the general vibe of the place was one of mystery.

And this mystery was also amplified by the mist… I didn’t dare to visit the Romanesque basilica, which was quite far away on the hill. But I could guess its shape through the mist. Can you see it in the center of the photo above?

How about now?